TET Georgia
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adventure
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motorcycle
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TET
TET Georgia is the culmination of a huge amount of effort and is designed to take the rider through all of Georgia’s natural beauty - from semi-desert, vast meadows and lush forests to the snow-covered peaks and glaciers of the Caucasian Mountains.
Locals call their country Sakartvelo. The name consists of two parts: Kartveli, which refers to inhabitants and the circumfix sa-o, a general geographic identification meaning “where the Kartveli live”. The country has almost every type of climate, from subtropical and alpine to semi-desert, but its land is also conducive to agriculture, with 49 different types of soil, making its biosphere one of the most ecologically diverse and fertile on Earth. The native tongue is unique and boasts its own alphabet.
Georgia has been producing wine for over 8,000 years and is the birthplace of winemaking. An archaeological expedition to a site near Dmanisi found the human skulls up to 1.8m years old - providing evidence that it may have been home to one of the oldest communities. The villages of Bochorna and Ushguli located in the mountains of Svaneti, at an altitude of 2,345m and 2,100m above sea level respectively, are some of the highest permanent settlements in Europe. The name of the capital, Tbilisi, is derived from a Georgian word – tbili – for “warm”. As legend has it, when a pheasant hunted by King Vakhtang I of Iberia fell into a natural hot spring during a hunt, he was so impressed that he built the city of Tbilisi on that exact spot.
It is going to be an adventure of epic proportions!
Section 1 – Batumi to Zugdidi
This is the only section covering the largest parts of three western regions combined: Ajara, Guria and Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti. Most of it lies on or a little above sea level. In the ancient past, Samegrelo was a part of the Kingdom of Colchis. The myth of the Argonauts and the Golden Fleece is told by Nokalakevi Castle and Nokalakevi Archeological Museum, both conveniently situated on the route. The most famous Megrelian folk song “Megrelian Nana”- a lullaby - is one of the tunes Peter Tchaikovsky used in his famous Christmas ballet - The Nutcracker. The Russian invasion of 1992-1993 has displaced more than 500,000 civilians from the neighboring Abkhazia and Russia still occupies 20% of the country. (The TET track carefully avoids occupied territories)
Section 2 – Zugdidi to Mestia
Mountainous Svaneti is the highest region in Georgia. Its mountain peaks, cliffs, alpine meadows and Svanetian Towers are celebrated as symbols of freedom. This section features the longest stretch of the twisty concrete road running through the overhanging cliffs of the Enguri River which originates from the glaciers of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. The Enguri Dam, situated en route, is the world's second highest concrete arch dam with a height of 271 meters. The Shdugra Waterfall north of Mazeri village is not to be missed.
Section 3 – Mestia to Ushguli
Day 2 in Svaneti is designed for exploring mountain peaks, cliffs, Svanetian towers and alpine meadows. First up is Koruldi Lakes, situated north of Mestia. Watching the sunrise from it is an unforgettable experience. The Heshkili Huts, south of Mestia, feature a picturesque mountainside swing. A little further up the dirt road, at the Zuruldi ski lift, is a café for beverages. There are many villages to visit and many unique local specialities to taste in Svaneti. Ushguli is the last village on this section. It lies at the base of a massive mountain, Shkederi. Not far from Ushguli is the magnificent glacier Shkhara. You can ride your iron horse to within a kilometre of it and then hike from there. They say, “If the glacier won’t come to you, you must go to the glacier.”
Section 4 – Ushguli to Martvili
Another day, another pass...The Latpari Pass, at 2840 meters, is the highest point on this section. From it you can overlook almost the entire lower Svaneti, officially known as Racha-Lechkhumi and Kvemo Svaneti Region. Riding through the densely populated valley of Tskhenitskali River is fun. Everyone you pass by is happy to see you. They wave with smiles. A magnificent statue of Stalin in one of the locals’ front yards is hard to miss and will have you yell “WTF?!” Easily the most spectacular and challenging ride is on the trail to the Askhi Plateau massif. Last but not least is the Martvili Canyon curving through its limestone rock sides.
Section 5 – Martvili to Shaori
Twisty local dirt roads will lead you into the one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, Kutaisi. This was also the center of Colchis in the Middle Ages and the capital of the Kingdom of Abkhazia. You should visit the Prometheus Caves and Sataplia. There's an abundance of caves and cultural monuments here: Gelati Monastery, founded in 1106 in the west of Kutaisi, is a masterpiece of the Golden Age of medieval Georgia. Bagrati Cathedral founded in 1003 is a symbol of the unity and strength of the country. The beautiful valley of the Rioni River will escort you out and into the region of Racha, commonly referred to by all Georgians as “Racha My Love”. The picturesque Sairme Pillars, a short hike up the mountain, and Nikortsminda Cathedral are en route and not to be missed.
Section 6 – Shaori to Oni
If there was a competition for the most laid-back people on earth, Rachvelians would be the undisputed champions! The fast-flowing Rioni River and the valley it flows through are responsible for Racha's diverse ecosystem with the river’s roar heard from just about every village. The famous Khvanchkara grapes, harvested in limited amounts each year, originate from this region and make some of Georgia's most delicious wines. This short but demanding section will end in Oni - a cozy little town that will serve as a base of your multi-day Racha adventure.
Section 7 – Oni to Shovi
Shovi, in its prime years, was one of the most attractive and popular resorts in Georgia. The harsh social economic circumstances caused by the 1991-1993 Russian occupation have turned it into a ghost town. Nevertheless, its natural beauty attracts many adventurers. Plan your day for an early departure and stop by the border police to get passes for the first-class view of the Greater Caucasus Mountains. You will need special permits to visit Mamisoni Pass and Gona village.
There are checkpoints on sections 7 and 8. Passes are not essential but make life smoother at these points. They can be obtained at the Border Police station in the town of Oni marked as a POI on the GPX.
Section 8 – Oni to Gona
Gebi, Tevresho, Gona and Brili are the last four villages of the mountainous Racha. As of 2022, Brili, the furthest of the four, and only one without inhabitants, is a ghost town. Perhaps the most spectacular sight is the Edena Glacier, where the Rioni River originates from. Gona is the most beautiful and has a bar with beverages. There are many picturesque mountain views to enjoy on this route - Budzgori, Salomgruano and Shushara to name a few.
Section 9 – Oni to Chiatura
Beyond the giant rocky slopes seen south of Oni, lies Shkmeri village - the first destination of the day. You can view the largest portion of the Greater Caucasus Mountains from this elongated oval-shaped mountain. On from Shkmeri and you are on Khikhamta - another mountain with a spectacular view of the Caucasus. As you drop down to Ambrolauri, don’t skip the Bungalo Bar by the river - the cocktails here are delicious! Oh and do not forget your swimming shorts! If you plan to ride the length of this section take it easy on the drinks as there's a challenging trail up ahead past the Shaori Reservoir. Katskhi Pillar, a monastery in the sky, situated near Chiatura remains one of Georgia’s most mysterious sights. The major attraction here is the WWII-era cable car system which is still in use and serves as the main mode of transport around the city.
Section 10 – Chiatura to Gori
Today, you will travel up and over the hills - welcome to the region of Imereti. The final stretch of the section is remote, forested, and muddy when it rains. In Gori, you’ll enter a town where one of the world's most ruthless dictators was born - Joseph Stalin. Georgians despise him just as much as the rest of the world. Visit the museum if you want to see the unique WWII memorabilia.
Section 11 – Gori to Dmanisi
The rock-hewn town north of Gori, Uplistsikhe is one of the oldest settlements in the Caucasus. The earliest traces of human presence here date back to the end of the 2nd millennium BC. Over the hills south of Gori opens up the Algeti National Park. Kldekari Fortress, built on the Trialeti Ridge has two entrances cut in the rock. Klde in Georgian means rock, kari means door and the combination of the two words means door in the rock, hence the name of the fortress. The town of Tsalka, en route, is a three-way intersection connecting TET Georgia routes. Dmanisi village at the end of this section is the site of paleoanthropological excavations.
Section 12 – Dmanisi to Rustavi
Dmanisi, site of paleoanthropological excavations, is the home of Zezva and Mzia - two fossilized, almost complete 1.8-million-year-old skulls belonging to prehistoric humans. Not long ago, the oldest human tooth was discovered at one of the sites.
Section 13 – Rustavi to Dali Reservoir
Did you know there’s a desert in Georgia? Don’t expect sand dunes though…there's also the town called Udabno you will pass through, which translates as Desert and is just as hot. This wide open, shallow forest area is home to 25 species of reptiles. Be careful while camping here, because the most dangerous of all species is the viper snake, "Giurza".
Note:
Sections 13 and 14 pass through armed checkpoints. Processing through these can take time. While not essential, the process can be speeded up by having in your possession a pass issued by the Georgian Border Police. This can be obtained by emailing pictures of your passport and your vehicle registration document with a completed
application form
to the
Georgian Border Police
. It takes 7-10 days to process the application and passes can be picked up at: 12, Simon Kandelaki Street, Tbilisi, Georgia
Section 14 – Dali Reservoir to Sighnaghi
Vashlovani National Park is one of the most remote areas of the country. If you don't have fuel for the next 120 kilometers or at least enough to turn back, you better call for help as there's no one to rescue you. Surprisingly though, the cell service is everywhere! If you're into Renaissance art, then you will appreciate a visit to the Niko Pirosmani museum situated along the route. At the end of the section, you will arrive in The City Of Love – Sighnaghi where you can drink wine and eat delicious food.
Section 15 – Sighnaghi to Kvareli
You are traveling through the region of Kakheti - a battle-ridden region, the home of Kakhetians. It is famous for its rich soil which produces the famous and delicious grapes. Wine was invented here, you know... Kakheti is also rich in monuments of different periods and diverse nature with ancient settlements, distinctive temples, beautiful forests, waterfalls, alpine lakes and vast plains.
Section 16 – Kvareli to Telavi
Midway along this section is the town of Gurjaani - often refrred to by locals as "the heart of Kakheti". Stop by at Kachreti Champion restaurant for the famous shish-kabab Mtsvadi. Legend has it that it's the most delicious in the country. If you like hiking, you should visit Mariamjvari Nature Preserve. The ride up towards Mt. Tokhliauri is difficult but spectacular with the beautiful city of Telavi awaiting you at the end, across alpine mountains and plains.
Section 17 – Telavi to Omalo
One of the most treacherous roads in Georgia and one of the seven most dangerous roads in the world: The Road to Tusheti via Abano Pass. Watch out for the fast approaching oncoming Kamaz trucks - sights to behold. Make sure to take extra fuel on board and ride the life out of your iron horse.
Section 18 – Omalo to Girevi & Verkhovani
Ride the gorges and soak up the beauty of Tusheti. If you're low on fuel, ask locals. Rumor has it, someone always has a stash.
Section 19 – Omalo to Chargali
Descending from high elevation is a unique challenge. Sore muscles from hard riding need proper rest. At the end of this section visit the home museum of the Georgian poet and writer Vazha-Pshavela. Across from the museum is a guest house, where I would recommend you stay overnight and sleep on the balcony.
Section 20 – Chargali to Shatili
If you’re experiencing a slightly sad, nostalgic feeling due to your departure from the Tusheti mountains, don't because today you will be traveling to another high, mountainous and remote region - the Khevsureti. The roads here are much less treacherous, but just as beautiful as the road to Tusheti. Again take extra fuel on board or start hunting for it as soon as you reach the village of Shatili.
Section 21 – Shatili to Stepantsminda
The next two major destinations are Gudamakari - one of the oldest and most beautiful villages alongside the Caucasus mountains - and the major town of Stepantsminda. You're going to need a bit of luck though because getting to Gudamakari is a challenge as the road is almost always washed out by the “Aragvi" river. No worries though, you can turn around and take the highway to Stepantsminda and ride down to Gudamakari from there.
Section 22 – Stepantsminda to Tbilisi
There's nothing spectacular to see on the road between Stepantsminda and Zhinvali Reservoir, other than heavily loaded, slow moving tractor trailers hauling goods from Russia but you will eventually descend into the town of Pasanauri - arguably the best town for eating Khinkali. The last 30 kilometers of this section is a paved twisty road via the beautiful Sabaduri Forest within Tbilisi National Park. Try to reach Tbilisi before dark, park your horse and blend into the crowd. Eat, drink and party like there's no tomorrow!
Section 23 – Tbilisi to Tsalka
The Tbilisi route is designed to show you around town and bring you near to spectacular viewpoints. It will probably take you a couple of hours to wiggle yourself out of the streets but take your time while weaving along. Keep your eyes focused and your senses sharp if you want to make it out of here without any road accidents. The traffic here is crazy! As you leave the capital, you will ascend to Jvari Monastery. The view of where the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers merge, or not merge, is a source of inspiration for many. Plan your afternoon break in the town of Mtskheta. From there the ride will be on top of the mountains on to the Didgori Memorial, then into the woods, then onto the mountains again and so on all the way to the town of Tsalka.
Section 24 – Tsalka to Vardzia
Tsalka is the major crossroads on TET Georgia, connecting eastern and western parts and is exactly in the middle in terms of distance. This section itself could be regarded as one of the most spectacular due to the variety of terrain and scenery. It starts off with long stretches of grasslands that lead to Mt. Kyzyldag - a Mars-like place with active volcanoes beneath. You can tell that there was a serious eruption some millions of years ago that threw molten rock lava for hundreds of miles around and then the place just kept boiling, forming these pyramid shaped mountains. Tabatskuri Lake situated on the far side of Samsari Range will help you cool-off so you can get ready for the final leg towards Vardzia - the city or monastery of caves built in the second half of 12th century during the reign of Queen Tamar. There's also another lake called Lake Levani, which I haven't explored, but heard it's even more spectacular than Tabatskuri Lake. You will be constantly challenged by huge sheep dogs, but do not take them too seriously. As my good friend puts it, “They're more bored than angry and love to chase something new!”.
Section 25 – Vardzia to Borjomi
This section is relatively short and sweet. Riding familiar territory overlooking the terrain in the distance you rode a day before brings special feelings that somehow motivate you. The beginning of the section features a unique landscape that you won't see anywhere else in Georgia - it's full of tiny bushy trees with a rocky, muddy surface that gets very slippery and tricky when wet. After passing Tabatskuri Lake yet again, you will reach Tskhratskaro Pass and the first of three armed checkpoints situated along the way to Borjomi. There's a fairly steep downhill before the highway that has 13 tight switchbacks with loose rock - it will be fun!
Section 26 – Borjomi to Akhaltsikhe
The section between Surami and Kharagauli is a road least traveled by as they had started building an improved version of Rikoti Pass that's supposed to be faster and more convenient for travellers…. It will take you and your horse to Kharagauli via beautiful hills and scenery with many picturesque spots along the way. The 15-kilometre section between Tskaltashua and Sairme is super twisty and fun. After that, you begin a sinuous ascent to Zekari Pass and then a twisty descent to Abastumani, a town famous for its cool climate, stargazer skies and thermal waters. Not far from there is the town Akhaltsikhe, where the main attraction is the Rabati Castle - a completely restored medieval fortress originally built in the 9th century.
Section 27 – Akhaltsikhe to Goderdzi
The entire section stretches across and loops around the mountainous Ajara bringing you to Goderdzi Pass. The trail that you and your iron iron horse travel on, feels like a time machine taking you through the ancient past, where the population was scanty, houses were tiny and primitive, and resources were scarce. But from time to time, the thump of the iron horse reminds you of the present. This gorgeous, uneven landscape forested with tall pine trees is situated in the far south-western region called "Ajara". Locals are absolutely in love with its pure beauty.
Section 28 – Goderdzi to Gomismta
Not far from the start of the section is Green Lake and on a hot summer day, it's perfect for swimming. It provides sufficient energy to propel you and the iron horse to Bakhmaro resort via twisty mountain roads and hills populated with pine trees. They say you can glimpse the Black Sea from Sunset Mountain, conveniently situated along the route in Bakhmaro. From here to Meria Keli village, the road gets rough mainly due to seasonal washouts, but it’s usually passable. The final destination is Gomismta, a village that sits literally above the clouds. Stay here for the night and recharge your batteries.
Section 29 – Gomismta to Batumi
This short and scenic section descends to the lower Ajara region and leads into one of the major cities along the Black Sea coast, Batumi. The best swimming is in Sarphi and Kvariati. The best seafood restaurants are in Batumi. Like any other major city, it never sleeps and provides limitless opportunities for partying, so take what it has to offer and enjoy.
