Road-trip in India
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adventure
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motorcycle
Finally, I arrive in India. I make no secret of the fact that leaving Pakistan was immensely liberating; it was an experience that put me to the test.
In Amritsar, not too far from the border, the hotel staff recommend I see the changing of the guard at the India-Pakistan border. Intrigued, I look it up and find it's a brief parade held every evening as the gates close. The sheer number of people astounds me. A policeman directs me to a special entrance for tourists, where I watch locals dance and sing, transforming a simple ceremony into a festive event.
The next day, a local friend takes me to various historical spots, including Jallianwala Bagh, where the infamous massacre of 1919 occurred. Though I won’t recount the details here, I encourage you to read about it—it's a haunting story still very much alive in the hearts of the people of Amritsar.
I also visit the Golden Temple, a pilgrimage site for followers of Sikhism. The temple's history is as rich as its gold-plated exterior. Built around a man-made pool, the temple’s name, "Amritsar," translates to "the tank of nectar of immortality." The grandeur and spiritual energy of the place are overwhelming.
The following day, my goal is to reach Srinagar, but bad roads and flooding force me to stop 200 km short. After a restless night spent in my riding gear, I continue at dawn, only to encounter equally poor road conditions. Along the way, my bag straps snap, but some quick improvisation with rubber bands keeps things secure for the moment. I reach Srinagar exhausted but content.
The next day, I cross the Nubra Valley and tackle Khardung La, one of the highest motorable passes in the world at nearly 5,400 meters. The majesty of the Himalayas leaves me in awe. As I ride through the Nubra Valley, I stop frequently to capture the serene, almost otherworldly landscapes.
On July 3rd, I leave Leh, aiming to reach Manali. The route includes the Tanglang La pass, the second-highest in the world, where temperatures drop to 2°C. My summer riding gear proves inadequate for the cold, and the thin air makes every breath a struggle. Yet, the stunning views and the thrill of the challenge keep me going.
Later, I traverse Lungalacha La, the third-highest pass, and its landscapes surpass even those of Khardung La in their beauty. These rugged Himalayan roads deliver everything I had hoped for in terms of adventure.
Upon returning to New Delhi, I set out for Agra to visit the Taj Mahal. Its breathtaking beauty is undeniable, and as my guide recounts the tale of its construction and the emperor’s love for his wife, I’m captivated. The ivory-white marble, the intricate details, and the serene garden outside leave an impression that stays with me long after I leave.
My last stop in India is Varanasi, one of the world's oldest cities and a sacred hub for Hindus. Here, the Ganges River is the center of life, and I witness pilgrims immersing themselves in its waters for purification. Along the riverbanks, life bustles with fishermen, children playing, and even cows sharing the space.
At sunset, I watch the cremation ceremonies at the burning ghats, a sobering sight that marks the cycle of life and death in the most raw and spiritual form. The guide explains how sandalwood is the most desired for the pyres due to its fragrance, and after cremation, the ashes are scattered into the sacred river.
As I prepare to leave India, the only regret I carry is not being able to visit Kathmandu and Calcutta, thanks to a delay in receiving new tires. Now, I head towards the border with Myanmar, where a new chapter of my journey awaits.
Author Tips & Tricks
1. Research Local Customs: Always take the time to understand the culture and local customs of the places you're visiting. This helps you blend in and respect the traditions of the people around you. For example, in India, removing your shoes before entering temples is a sign of respect.
2. Travel Light but Prepared: Make sure you have the essentials without overloading yourself. Carry basic repair kits, extra straps (like rubber bands), and tools that can help you out of tricky situations on rough roads.
3. Adapt to Local Weather: Weather can be unpredictable, especially at high altitudes. Always carry layers of clothing to adapt to sudden temperature changes. A compact rain jacket and a thermal base layer can make a big difference when traveling through areas like the Himalayas.
4. Start Early, Plan Ahead: Long journeys on tough roads are best started early in the morning. Plan your day with a buffer for unexpected delays due to road conditions or weather changes.
5. Keep Your Electronics Charged: Ensure your devices are fully charged before setting off. If possible, carry portable chargers, especially if you’re going to be away from cities where electricity may not be readily available.
6. Learn Basic Local Phrases: Knowing a few key phrases in the local language can be invaluable. Simple phrases like "thank you," "hello," and "where is...?" can make interactions smoother and more pleasant.
7. Stay Hydrated: High altitudes and long journeys can dehydrate you quickly. Always carry enough water, and if possible, invest in a portable water filter or purification tablets if you’re traveling to remote areas.
8. Be Prepared for Altitude: If you’re traveling to high-altitude regions like the Nubra Valley or Khardung La, give your body time to acclimatize. Move slowly, stay hydrated, and consider carrying medication for altitude sickness.
9. Use Offline Maps: When traveling through remote areas with limited connectivity, it's essential to have offline maps saved on your phone or GPS device. Apps like Maps.me and Google Maps allow you to download maps for use without internet access.
10. Carry Local Currency: In rural or remote areas, credit card acceptance is limited. Always keep enough local currency to cover your expenses, especially for food, fuel, and accommodation.
11. Invest in Good Riding Gear: For motorbike travel, durable riding gear is essential. Waterproof riding suits, gloves, and a high-quality helmet can keep you safe and comfortable throughout your journey.
12. Pack Snacks and Essentials: Long stretches of road may not have places to stop for food, so carry energy bars, dried fruits, and nuts. It’s also handy to have a small first-aid kit for any minor injuries.
13. Secure Your Gear: Ensure that your luggage is securely fastened to your bike or vehicle. Using additional bungee cords or straps can prevent mishaps like losing bags during rough road journeys.
14. Document the Journey: Whether through photos, video, or journaling, capturing moments along the way can enrich your travel experience and provide lasting memories of your adventure.
By following these tips and tricks, you’ll be better equipped to handle the unique challenges that arise during long-distance, rugged motorcycle trips through places like India.
